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Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Dec 11th, 2017 10:44 pm
by rbryce1
The fuel tank contains the fuel level sensor for the fuel gauge, the internal fuel pump, the return line and a tank vent fitting. The pump unit needed assembled to fit the tank it ws to be installed in, as it is designed to fit a variety of tanks.

You must measure the full depth of the tank where the pump is installed, subtract the height of the pump from that reading and cut the fuel tube to that length. Once the fuel tube is cut to length, you heat the end of the tube with a hot air gun to make it slightly plyable and insert the fuel pump into the tube. Then you cut the return line to the correct length, tie wrap them all together, plug in the fuel pump and the unit is ready to install in the tank. Here is the assembled pump.

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The sending unit comes assembled and just needs to be installed in the tank. They make several styles, but only one (the most expensive one, naturally) will work correctly with the factory fuel gauge.

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Once I am finished installing the rear lower valance bonding strips I can install the fuel tank. Until then, I am starting to work on the engine side. After removing the carburetor, I installed the fuel injection throttle body. The front hose will connect to the fuel filter and supply fuel to the throttle body. the rear hose gets connected to the stock fuel line and is the return to the fuel tank.

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The reason I am using the stock fuel line as a return line and installing a new fuel hose for the supply is the return line is under very little pressure and the connection being a hose clap and nipple will not hold the full fuel pressure of the high pressure fuel pump. The supply hose requires AN-6 type fittings which cannot be reliably installed on the steel tubing and be guaranteed not to leak, at least not to my comfort level. Since I needed to install at least one additional line, I elected to make it the supply line with all high pressure fittings.

The hose is a nylon center hose with several layers of stainless steel braid to give it the strength it needs and is good for all types of fuel including gasoline and ethanol. I purchased a part that installs on my vise to put the hose fittings on the high pressure hose. It's pretty cool actually.

It mounts with little magnets to the vice jaws and holds the fitting and hose so you can insert the other fitting part and make the high pressure connector.

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The magnets

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Installed in my vise with a fitting in the jaws.

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First put the female part of the connector over the end of the hose.

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Then insert the female connector and hose into the tool in the vise.

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Next insert the male portion of the fitting and screw it fully into the female part of the fitting.
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This creates a leakproof high pressure hose fitting that screws onto an AN fitting.

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I also took the time while the carburetor was off to polish the aluminium intake manifold. Much easier with nothing there to get in the way.

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Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Dec 20th, 2017 10:33 pm
by MaineVette
Wow, you've been busy! It seems like you're always finding some sort of surprise. I guess that's what happens when you literally disassemble every piece, part, nut and bolt from a car. You see EVERYTHING!

Who would have thought replacing a gas tank would lead to replacing frame components? :crazy:

Looks really nice though. I like the black braided cables - those look pretty slick!

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Dec 24th, 2017 2:20 pm
by rbryce1
I removed the passenger side exhaust pipe and took it to the same muffler shop that welded the collector flange to the mufflers to have the Oxygen Sensor bung installed, then reinstalled the exhaust pipe in the car.

Oxygen sensor bung
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I never thought that routing a single new fuel line from the gas tank to the engine would be so difficult, but it was. I needed to find a way to run the fuel hose so it would not interfere with the operation and movement of the rear axle components, it would not interfere with removing the rear axle components, it would not interfere with the transmission and drive shaft, still allow the transmission cross member to be removed, stay away from the headers, make it through the splash shields and up to the fuel filter and still allow the car to be lifted with a frame lift.

I tried running it along side of the frame, but could not get clearances where it passed over the rear axles and rear control arms. It also would not fit in the cavity between the transmission cross member and the frame, and I did not want to run it under the cross member because I could not remove it in case I needed to remove the transmission.

I ran it from the gas tank up and over the rear end securing it to the underside of the floor with tubing clamps. It went up the center of the car on the passenger side of the driveshaft, up over the transmission cross member on the passenger side of the transmission, up the bell housing on the passenger side to the firewall and up the firewall to the fuel filter. It's not completely installed yet, and when it is I will show photos.

I bought a 25 micron fuel filter with a stainless steel mesh screen that could be removed for cleaning and reinstalled. I did a lot of research on filters, and my findings and advise is if the only filter you can get is a paper or cellulose type element, run without a filter at all. The paper works fine and will filter down to 5 microns, but the glue will deteriorate to a gummy substance if exposed to ethanol. The filter companies even warn you about it by stating the filters are good for gasoline and diesel, but they classify ethanol, especially E85 as a different type of fuel. One report I found stated after 1 year of use, they cut open the filter and found the paper had stopped everything and there was no evidence of dirt of any size on the carburetor side of the filter, however, (that bad word), the glue holding the paper to the filter walls and the glue at the seam in the paper cylinder had turned to a heavy gummy substance on the carburetor side of the element. Since I did not want this crap in my fuel injectors, I opted for the stainless steel element, even though they are far more expensive ( $100 vs $15).

The next problem was the filter mounts. Since the filter was too large in diameter to be mounted on the throttle body due to it having a 2" diameter and it would not clear the underside of the air filter and Magnafuel did not make a bracket for their filter, I bought a 2" mount from Holly to fit the 2" filter from Magnafuel. Problem was the Holley mounts were 1/16" smaller than 2" and the filter from Magnafuel was 1/16" larger than 2", which meant I needed to hone 1/8" off of the inside diameter of the bracket (1/16th inch all the way around) without destroying the high polish finish on the aluminium brackets. After many hours of careful deburring and polishing, the filter finally fit the mounts.

I installed the fuel filter on the firewall. I had the room because the A/C unit I installed was self contained and totally inside the passenger compartment, leaving a lot of spare room on the passenger side firewall.

Fuel filter on firewall
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Here are 2 photos of the engine compartment.

Engine with FI and no air filter
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Engine with FI and air filter
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I am finishing the body work this weekend on the rear lower panel mounts, then installing the new fuel tank permanently. Once that is done, I can connect the fuel lines and it will be ready for an engine startup.

More later.

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Dec 27th, 2017 8:28 pm
by MaineVette
Nice work as usual, Bob. I wouldn't have thought it would have been so tough to route the fuel line either. But, as you described it, I can see where it was a total pain.

Your motor looks pretty awesome. That's going to be one mean ride when you've got it all set up. :thumbs:

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Jan 1st, 2018 5:57 pm
by rbryce1
I have been trying for 2 days now to get the fuel injection gas tank installed. What a nightmare!

The passenger side retaining strap must be located exactly due to it's position over the fuel sender and fuel return hose. They could have designed that much better. Not to mention having to bend the new straps to get the exact correct bend over the tank.

Last, you must assemble all of this in an area that is like trying to put together a jig say puzzle in the back of one of your kitchen cabinets where you cant see or reach.

Right now I have the straps taped in place and the gas tank hanging from a rope so I can try and maneuver it thru the straps and up into position.

Hope to get it in today.

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Jan 2nd, 2018 9:28 am
by a66toy
Bob, fun isn't it. Don't forget the anti squeak pads between the straps and the tank. All they are is 2" wide strips of roofing paper.

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Jan 3rd, 2018 6:44 am
by rbryce1
a66toy wrote:
Jan 2nd, 2018 9:28 am
Bob, fun isn't it. Don't forget the anti squeak pads between the straps and the tank. All they are is 2" wide strips of roofing paper.
Got them. I used 4" wide peel and seal roofing tape across the front and rear bottoms and under the entire set of straps.

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Jan 7th, 2018 12:35 am
by rbryce1
Here is the bottom of the gas tank installed. You can see where I used the peel and stick roofing material. I not only put it on the front and rear cross members, I coated the tank as well. You can see in the photos the front cross member took some punishment, but I can clean it up easy enough and repaint it. The dark grey is the coating on the fuel tank. It was sooooo nice to see the straps fit right into place and line up with the bolt holes on the front side of the tank.

Drivers side

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Passenger side

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Got more work done on the gas tank wiring and fuel hoses. Everything is different in the back. The fuel pump is electric and inside the fuel tank, and it is controlled by a power wire from the fuel injection harness. I had to cut off the stock wire plugs to the fuel level sender and wire the new one in, and that is all done now. The fuel return hose is on the factory supply line and tomorrow I will hopefully complete installing the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter.

I then need to connect the positive power wire to the battery, a key power wire to the computer and a wire to the distributor to sense ignition spark.

After that, I can plug in the hand held controller, put fuel in the gas tank, do a final check and fire it up. If I can get all that done tomorrow, great, if not I have Monday off and it should be running by Monday.

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Jan 7th, 2018 9:53 pm
by rbryce1
Well, everything is now wired in the FI system. The return line hoses are complete, the fuel supply hoses are complete, oxygen sensor is installed, temperature sensor is installed, positive and keyed power is connected, tach trigger is connected and the battery is on charge.

Tomorrow I will review the startup check list, make sure all fuel line connections are tight, no wires are touching anything they should not be touching, add antifreeze and a small amount of gas and connect the handheld computer.

Then, I plan to run the fuel pump for about 15 seconds and do a complete leak check for any fuel leaks. After that, I need to enter the startup data into the computer and then fire it up.

After all this work, I sure hope if goes well.

Re: '65 Coupe Resto-Mod and '68 Full Custom Restoration

Posted: Jan 8th, 2018 11:04 pm
by rbryce1
Fired up the '65 on fuel injection this evening.

Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! :cheers: :hammer: :Hurray: :) :) :D